Friday, November 23, 2012

Underground in the Loire


The lovely limestone of the Loire valley, called tuffeau, has been quarried since the Middle Ages to build the houses, walls, castles and fortifications of the region.



Its production left behind thousands of kilometres of quarries and caves, which, over the centuries have been reused and adapted to hold everything from entire villages to mushroom production to upscale housing.

If you’re in the region and between chateau visits, you can stop for a meal at one of my favorites,  La Cave aux Moines,  whose restaurant, les Pieds Bleus (the Blue Feet!) serves a wonderful meal of rillettes, various kinds of mushrooms grown in the caves, and fouĂ©es, a flat bread baked in the wood-fired oven in the restaurant, all presented by candlelight and firelight, deep inside the troglodyte cave.  La Cave aux Moines is located on the main road between Tours and Saumur.   Here’s the website.

http://www.cave-aux-moines.comwww.cave-aux-moines.com

Another troglodyte restaurant in Montlouis (a great place to taste Loire valley wines), Restaurant La Cave, serves a more elegant (and expensive) menu.   The owners are also winemakers for 5 generations, and you can tour and taste the wines as well.

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