Another south of France

Spring is slow to come to Maine, but I’ve been cheating.   I’ve just spent 10 days back in France, in the region called Midi-Pyrénées, where spring is already well underway.

French geography is always confusing because there are départements, which are administrative devisions, and regions, which are larger divisions, and historic names which overlap both regions and départments, without matching either of them.

So here’s where it is.

Midi-Pyrénées is the largest of the French regions, encompassing the huge chunk in the middle of southern France, just north of Spain and south of the Auvergne.   To the west is the Dordogne and Bordeaux, to the east is Carcassonne and Montpellier.

What’s there?   Toulouse, the largest city in the region, home to Airbus, called la Ville Rose because of its brick architecture.  The Canal du Midi, with its barges, Rocamadour and Conques, famous pilgrimmage sites on the route of St. James, Lourdes, and more recently, the stunning Viaduc de Millau.   And Cathar castles, mountain spas, wonderful medieval towns, and some of the best food in France.

In the next few posts I'll share some of the places we visited and offer some suggestions for traveling to the region.   

The best train deal in Alsace

Quite by accident, looking up the fare from Strasbourg to Mulhouse, I came upon one of the best transport bargains I’ve seen.   The TER (the regional train system in France) sells a one day pass for unlimited travel throughout Alsace, including the TER trains, local buses and trams.   For 34 Euros, the pass  (called the Alsa + Groupe Journée)  is good for up to 5 people (not necessary to be related) traveling together.   Good only on a Saturday, Sunday or holiday, but those are the best times for most excursions anyway.

Another pass, the Alsa + Individuel 24 heures, is good any day of the week, but costs 33 Euros and is valid for only one person.

We used the pass to go from Strasbourg to Mulhouse, to Colmar, and back again to Strasbourg, as well as for the tram in Strasbourg.   We could have gone in a different direction, or made multiple stops.  A super great deal.   You can't buy this ticket in the US though - passes can be bought at the local train stations.

If you read French, the pass is explained here:

http://www.ctbr67.fr/rubriquetarifs/alsa-plus/

Strasbourg - Marchés de Noel

Having recently spent a week in Strasbourg during the Christmas market season, I have a few hints and suggestions for anyone planning the trip.

First of all, do go.    

Strasbourg is a beautiful city of great charm and culture in any season, but nowhere else in France comes near the Christmas mood generated in Alsace.   It lasts the longest, offers the most variety, and yes, even the weather, which is wintery and sometimes snows, lends something to the mood.  There’s a reason for all that vin chaud.

 The Christmas markets in Alsace begin during the last week in November and continue on until the end of January.  Markets in Strasbourg and Colmar are non-stop;  markets in the smaller towns and villages are shorter or may be only one or two weekends.   We were there early, during the first week of December, and the crowds were already intense.

Forget driving

If you’re staying in Strasbourg, there’s an excellent tram and bus system that will get you anywhere you need to go, and if you stay at one of the major tourist hotels, you can virtually walk the entire city.   The views along the canals are lovely, the shop windows are full of beautiful things, and at night the lights are spectacular.  Walk.

If you want to visit some of the smaller towns, many are easily accessible by train.

Shop during the day

If you want to shop, it’s less busy during daylight hours.  In the evenings, the crowds gather and its sometimes hard to make your way through the aisles, especially at Place Broglie and around the Cathedrale.  

Lights, lights, lights

Every street has a different style of Christmas lighting, so go out after dark to get the full effect of it all.   Sip a vin chaud (plenty of non-alcoholic alternatives too if you prefer), taste the gingerbread or the bretzel, and walk from one market to the next.

 

The Markets

This year Strasbourg had eleven different locations around town where Christmas markets were set up – everything from the Russian handicrafts (this year’s international guest) to the foie gras market, to the traditional cookies (bredele) and local wine market.  Our favorite was the huge market at Place Broglie, which had lots of Christmas decorations and lights, as well as the Christmas tree market.  

And of course one market surrounds the Cathedral.

Strasbourg - that's in France?

When I told someone recently that I was off to Strasbourg and its Christmas markets, she frowned.  "That's in Germany, right?"

Well, no, not recently, though Strasbourg and Alsace have been traded back and forth for a long time.  You won't go wrong if you just say that people here are Alsatian, with their own history, culture, language, cuisine - and oh yes, the first Christmas market - in Europe - took place here, in Alsace in 1570.

The Christmas markets run from the end of November until NewYear in Strasbourg and Colmar, and on slightly lighter schedules throughout the smaller towns and villages of the region.   This year Strasbourg boasts 12 markets, spread all over town, with various specialties and moods.   Everywhere there's the scent of vin chaud (hot mulled wine) and stands selling cookies and bretzels and tarte flambée.   At night, with the whole city lit up and the crowds filling the streets, it's a midwinter carnival. 

Details to follow...

There's a M'App for That

For years I’ve been supplying clients with Paris city maps, Michelin route maps and all sorts of printed information.   I’m a map lover, and I’ll probably never stop using the paper variety.  But that pile of paper can take up a lot of room in the suitcase.

Though I’ve been slow to catch on, my last trip gave me a chance to use some of the smart phone options available.   It’s a revelation.   Of course some apps are a lot better than others.   Here are a few of my favorites for France:

City Maps to Go

For a whole host of cities in France and elsewhere in the world.   What I like best is that you can stretch it out large enough to read the street names and shrink it down so that you can see where you’re headed.  

Cost:  $1.99

France Travel Guide by Triposo

A good basic sightseeing guide for many major locations in France.

Cost:  Free

XE Currency

A basic currency exchange – up to date if your phone’s online. 

Cost:  Free

RATP

The guide to the Paris metro.  Maps of the metro lines, bus routes, RER and station exit maps.   You can map your trip across town, using subway,  bus or a combination.  Traffic reports too if you’re online.

Cost:  Free

SNCF

Train timetables and itineraries, maps of train stations. 

Cost:  Free

France 24

The news from France – in English.

Cost:  Free

Time Out Paris

One of my favorite restaurant and travel guides for Paris

Cost: Free

Pudlo 2012

A really good restaurant guide for Paris – in French

Cost:  $3.99

Set...

Someone asked me recently how I would pack for my upcoming trip of seven weeks.   The  answer ought to be – the same as for a shorter trip.   As little as possible.

The experienced traveler, it was said, was one who could stick her toothbrush in her  book – and leave.

The other old rule is to lay out everything you plan to take, then take half the clothes and twice the money.   Not bad advice.

Almost all of us end up carrying too much, and forgetting something that matters.  With more and more restrictions on baggage size and weight, with more fees for extra bags, it pays to travel light in more ways than one.   If you need a list of reasons, consider the following:

Most international flights still allow for one free checked bag and a carry-on.   Extra bags and extra weight bring extra fees.

Travelers using public transportation – bus, train, subway – move easier with fewer bags.   Many subway stops – and parts of train stations – lack elevators or escalators.   Lighter is better.

European cars are still smaller and have smaller trunk space.   Too much luggage and you may have to up the size of your rental just for the suitcases.

Lots of small, charming, historic hotels lack elevators too – they also lack bellboys.

Finally, you will probably buy things – which will add to the stuff you’re carrying.  Best to start out light, at least.

Packing Tips

Carryon luggage

Pack valuables and necessities in your carryon – that includes medications, glasses, tickets, itinerary information.

Carry your passport and money on your person – have photocopies stashed in your carryon and your checked luggage.  For women, a purse with a zippered section – for men, NEVER in your back packet.

Pack one change of clothes – or at least underwear – in your carryon.   If your checked luggage goes astray for a day or longer, you’ll be a lot more comfotable.

Carry electronics – computer, cameras, etc in your carryon.

Condensing the Necessary

If you carry a computer or tablet, lots of your travel information – guides, itinerary, local information – can be carried electronically.   Maps can be had from the tourist office.

If you have a smart phone, numerous travel apps can replace paper.   See the upcoming post for details on travel apps for France.

Pick a color for your wardrobe and take mix and match, layers, and, for women, a variety of scarves.  You’ll look very French.

Do Take:

Converter plugs for your appliances – computers, chargers, phones.   They’re small and necessary.

A small kit with eyeglass repair screws, small scissors, bandaids, aspirin, etc.

A corkscrew and knife (in your checked luggage) if you like to picnic.

Extra plastic bags for all kinds of uses

Don’t Take

Valuable jewelry

An alarm clock, if there’s one in your phone

A hairdryer, if you’re staying in hotels.  You might want one if you’re renting a house or apartment.

Underground in the Loire

The lovely limestone of the Loire valley, called tuffeau, has been quarried since the Middle Ages to build the houses, walls, castles and fortifications of the region.

Its production left behind thousands of kilometres of quarries and caves, which, over the centuries have been reused and adapted to hold everything from entire villages to mushroom production to upscale housing.

If you’re in the region and between chateau visits, you can stop for a meal at one of my favorites,  La Cave aux Moines,  whose restaurant, les Pieds Bleus (the Blue Feet!) serves a wonderful meal of rillettes, various kinds of mushrooms grown in the caves, and fouées, a flat bread baked in the wood-fired oven in the restaurant, all presented by candlelight and firelight, deep inside the troglodyte cave.  La Cave aux Moines is located on the main road between Tours and Saumur.   Here’s the website.

http://www.cave-aux-moines.comwww.cave-aux-moines.com

Another troglodyte restaurant in Montlouis (a great place to taste Loire valley wines), Restaurant La Cave, serves a more elegant (and expensive) menu.   The owners are also winemakers for 5 generations, and you can tour and taste the wines as well.

http://www.restaurant-la-cave.com