The best train deal in Alsace

Quite by accident, looking up the fare from Strasbourg to Mulhouse, I came upon one of the best transport bargains I’ve seen.   The TER (the regional train system in France) sells a one day pass for unlimited travel throughout Alsace, including the TER trains, local buses and trams.   For 34 Euros, the pass  (called the Alsa + Groupe Journée)  is good for up to 5 people (not necessary to be related) traveling together.   Good only on a Saturday, Sunday or holiday, but those are the best times for most excursions anyway.

Another pass, the Alsa + Individuel 24 heures, is good any day of the week, but costs 33 Euros and is valid for only one person.

We used the pass to go from Strasbourg to Mulhouse, to Colmar, and back again to Strasbourg, as well as for the tram in Strasbourg.   We could have gone in a different direction, or made multiple stops.  A super great deal.   You can't buy this ticket in the US though - passes can be bought at the local train stations.

If you read French, the pass is explained here:

http://www.ctbr67.fr/rubriquetarifs/alsa-plus/

Strasbourg - Marchés de Noel

Having recently spent a week in Strasbourg during the Christmas market season, I have a few hints and suggestions for anyone planning the trip.

First of all, do go.    

Strasbourg is a beautiful city of great charm and culture in any season, but nowhere else in France comes near the Christmas mood generated in Alsace.   It lasts the longest, offers the most variety, and yes, even the weather, which is wintery and sometimes snows, lends something to the mood.  There’s a reason for all that vin chaud.

 The Christmas markets in Alsace begin during the last week in November and continue on until the end of January.  Markets in Strasbourg and Colmar are non-stop;  markets in the smaller towns and villages are shorter or may be only one or two weekends.   We were there early, during the first week of December, and the crowds were already intense.

Forget driving

If you’re staying in Strasbourg, there’s an excellent tram and bus system that will get you anywhere you need to go, and if you stay at one of the major tourist hotels, you can virtually walk the entire city.   The views along the canals are lovely, the shop windows are full of beautiful things, and at night the lights are spectacular.  Walk.

If you want to visit some of the smaller towns, many are easily accessible by train.

Shop during the day

If you want to shop, it’s less busy during daylight hours.  In the evenings, the crowds gather and its sometimes hard to make your way through the aisles, especially at Place Broglie and around the Cathedrale.  

Lights, lights, lights

Every street has a different style of Christmas lighting, so go out after dark to get the full effect of it all.   Sip a vin chaud (plenty of non-alcoholic alternatives too if you prefer), taste the gingerbread or the bretzel, and walk from one market to the next.

 

The Markets

This year Strasbourg had eleven different locations around town where Christmas markets were set up – everything from the Russian handicrafts (this year’s international guest) to the foie gras market, to the traditional cookies (bredele) and local wine market.  Our favorite was the huge market at Place Broglie, which had lots of Christmas decorations and lights, as well as the Christmas tree market.  

And of course one market surrounds the Cathedral.

Strasbourg - that's in France?

When I told someone recently that I was off to Strasbourg and its Christmas markets, she frowned.  "That's in Germany, right?"

Well, no, not recently, though Strasbourg and Alsace have been traded back and forth for a long time.  You won't go wrong if you just say that people here are Alsatian, with their own history, culture, language, cuisine - and oh yes, the first Christmas market - in Europe - took place here, in Alsace in 1570.

The Christmas markets run from the end of November until NewYear in Strasbourg and Colmar, and on slightly lighter schedules throughout the smaller towns and villages of the region.   This year Strasbourg boasts 12 markets, spread all over town, with various specialties and moods.   Everywhere there's the scent of vin chaud (hot mulled wine) and stands selling cookies and bretzels and tarte flambée.   At night, with the whole city lit up and the crowds filling the streets, it's a midwinter carnival. 

Details to follow...